SUPERMODEL ELAINE IRWIN-MELLENKAMPF SHOT BY JACK GUY
Riku answers the most asked questions about makeup and skincare
Q: How to choose the right foundation?
A: To choose the right foundation you should first know your skintype: dry,normal,combination or oily.After that, you can choose the right formula that suits perfectly on your skin and needs.On summer you want to use tinted moisturizers that are light formulas with spf 15-20( sometimes even UVA+UVB protectors) and in the winter you might need to use a little bit more coverage foundation aka fluid.The right color tone is as important as the right formula.Make sure it sits on your own skincolor perfectly:shouldn't be too yellow,pink or ashy.Always test the base products in the daylight.Then you won't have any surprises when stepping outside in the "real world".
Q:Should I use a moisturizer or primer under my base? Or both?
A:Everyone needs to moisturize the skin whether it's dry, normal, combination or oily.If your skin is dry, use always a moisturizer that contains a little bit oil that keeps your skin hydrated longer time.For oily skin it's opposite, you need to use an oilfree moisturizer that doesn't clog your pores and keep your skin balanced and more matt.Moisturizers help the foundation to sit better and last longer.Primers are sort of between a skincare and makeup product that are usually silicon based formulas.Silicon helps the foundation to " glide" on the skin. I like to use primers on combination and oily skin because they are oilfree and keep the makeup in one place longer time.Primers also build a sort of barrier between the skin and makeup and that is the secret of a long lasting makeup.For oily skin you don't need to use a seperate moisturizer, but combination skintype, yes.Use the oilfree primer on the areas where the skin is more oily and the moisturizer on the areas where the skin is dry.This works very well.Dry skin needs just a good moisturizer.If that is not enough, use a face serum under the moisturizer to maximize the hydration in your skin.
Q:How to choose a mascara?
A:Black mascara is the most popular and used around the world.Black deepens the look of your eyes and brings out your lashes the best.Brown mascara works well on fair/blond lashes and all color ones are fun to play with:schocking/electric blue is amazing as well turquise.Avoid redish brown, because it makes your eyes look teary and swollen.The brush is very important:make sure you know what you are looking for:lenghtening,volumizing or seperating brush.In the end, the mascara is made basicly of dyes and waxes, so the brush is the key answear.
Q:Should I line my lips?
A:Lining your lips is a must if you have fine lines/wrinkles around your lips.Lipliner stops the lipstick from" running" into those small lines;it sort of builds up a "wall".Lining is also a good option if you must correct your own lipline:sometimes the other side of your lip might appear naturally higher/lower and with a lipliner it's easy to correct this matter.Never line your lips over the top.You can also create the perfect red "Hollywood retro-lips" by using a lipliner only.Just choose the perfect red liner you desire,finish your base(remember to cover your lips with a foundation+little loose powder to get a perfect, blanc canvas) and start lining and coloring your lips.This is the esiest way to get the most balanced,always fashionable mat,red lips.
Q:What is the right place on my face to apply the blush?
A:Smile and find the apples of your cheeks;that's the place for your blush.Remember to be very light-handed.Less is more.You want to use blush just to give a little bit natural color on your cheeks, not looking like you have been running 10 miles.Powder formula blush suits for everyone and it's also the handiest when cream blsh is excellent for 40+ and up, especially if your skin is more dry.Cream and gel blushes are excellent also in the humidity and summer because they stay on the skin well.
Q:How about mineral makeups...?
A:Mineral makeups are great for normal, young skin.I don't recommend mineral makeups if your skin is dry or oily, because the mineral makeup format simply doesn't work on those skintypes.Why?Powder format base products make dry skin appear even more dry and for oily skin, mineral makeup starts to look cakey, because you must add more makeup during the day to avoid the skin to shine.And in the end of the day,you start to look like you have flours on your face!Instead of adding more powder, use the blotting papers...A good primer/moisturizer and tinted moisturizer+transparent loose powder are my alltime favourites.Don't get me wrong, I like some mineral makeup products.Mineral makeups are not something new, people have used these ground mineral ingrediants thousand years ago already.
Q:Why should I contour my face?
A:You shouldn't, really.Contouring is working only for editorial, film,TV and stage makeups.In real,raw daylight contoured face looks very theatrical.I use contouring only for the evening makeup... and only to round and square face-shapes to give more"hollow-cheek"-look.But be very light handed.If you contour too much, you look like you have dirt on your face.For film and editorial work contourig works well but only if the lighting is in perfect harmony with the makeup.A perfect lighting is as important as a perfect make up.
Q:What is a Beauty Director?
A:Beauty Director visualizes the overall beauty ( makeup,hair,nails) for beauty editorials,beauty campaigns,TV commercials and advertising campaigns and help therefore to create the right look for each and every project.Beauty Director works also for cosmetic companies to create the new looks, trends and help the company to update their visual images.